Cars, trains, cable cars, gondola's and hiking - lots of hiking.
All we knew going into the day was that we were going to Hokkaido, there would be a train ride over and back and we were meeting at 7:30 am at the local community center to head out and we needed cash. Which was fine with me, why plan anything ... my kinda trip :). The group was Joan, Stone and I, John (a temporary team member of Joan's), Ricky (a team member of Joan's) and Chizuko, Sachiko and Tanaka (all members of the Friday evening gathering) our guides and translators for the day.
We gather at the appointed time, quickly figure out who is riding with whom, then head out toward the train station. The train station is on the North East coast and covers roads that I frequent on my bike. The passenger in our car (Sachiko) is the local Police chief's wife who we met at a BBQ earlier in the week. She indicated that she spoke very little English; however, she actually knew enough key words and with my very limited Japanese we were able to be quite chatty throughout the day. After just under an hour we pulled into the train station, which you would not recognize as being a train station without knowing a bit of Japanese.
Joan and I were, as usual, nearly late in getting to the meeting point to begin with, so I took a couple of minutes to organize and load the backpack, which was the only bag we were taking for the day trip. Everyone politely waited as we had a good 20 minutes before the train arrived. In my haste in packing, as I knew they were waiting, I did leave one little key ingredient in the truck - sunscreen (I know dad, I know ...). I realized this fact once we departed from the train in Hakodate.
Our hosts asked for 10,000 Yen per person in the station, which was more than we were originally quoted. As it would eventually turn out, at each time we need to purchase any sort of ticket or entry pass, they (Sachiko in most cases) took care of it for us "gajin", thus we had a very small personalized touring experience for the day and on the train ride home we all got money back. Another example of the gracious hosts that we have here. However, I guess I am getting a bit ahead of the story for the day.
The train tickets were purchased and distributed, and as usual Stone was drawing lots of positive attention - the story of the day and our time thus far in Japan. We made our way out to the loading area and waited. The train system is used heavily in Japan for mass transit and some lines have power lines the entire way (thus you can use a electric diesel engine) yet other smaller commuter lines have no power lines, thus you still see smaller diesel powered commuting trains as well. The 485 North East Express arrived and it was quite large, and it even had a color LCD screen on the front of the engine - I can not even begin to guess the purpose of this other than to entertain the wildlife on the way ...
We had non reserved tickets and were boarding mid route, therefore the group scattered throughout the car we boarded as it was quite full. Joan and I across the isle from each other, and the others about ten rows in front. The train itself was quite and very smooth as it wound its way around and through the mountains leading to the North of the main Island where we would then go under the Sea of Japan and return above ground a kilometer or two into the island of Hokkaido. Tanaka came to let us know that they had a mothers room at each car for nursing and changing. While we were in the tunnel under the sea, Joan took Stone to nurse and see about a nap. While we were in the tunnel (any tunnel) the noise was significantly louder; which was somewhat surprising as I would have thought that there would be a bit more sound proofing on an otherwise very modern train. We were under water for about 30 minutes, then returned to the light - popping out of a hillside on the coast of Hokkaido. Stone napped for about five minutes ...
We followed the coastline around a bay for about 30 minutes, finally arriving in Hakodate, a port city built on top of a peninsula. We were told that this was one of the first ports that western vessels began trading with; however, the p was transposed for an f - this was actually the site of a famous fort designed in a Western style (at least adopting the European idea of high stone walls and a moat system). In any event, we gathered in front of the terminal for a few photos and to wait for the cable car that would take us to the fort area.
We were presented with all day passes for the cable car system, as purchased for us by our guides. I loaded Stone into his portable throne for the outing. He seems to enjoy the back pack much more than the Bjorn - and the back pack is much easier on me - glad we agree. Almost immediately after I had the pack on, smiling Japanese faces started admiring him the standard greeting for Stone could be heard, "kawaee" (cute). We progressed over to the staging area for the cable car (trolley) and I could see into a car across from us that you could stand in the car - which meant that I did not have to try to off-load the pack inside the car. People were pointing and smiling from the opposing car seeing the king, err, baby ...
A short trip on the cable car, and a hike got us to the fort. There is a picture in the "on foot" album that has more on the fort's history; however, in a nutshell this was the last battle place ending that last civil war in Japan. Now the site is dedicated to gardens and exercise. You do not get a sense of the scale of the area until you get up to a tower that was recently erected next to the fort. There were lots of things that I observed that I wanted to shoot; however, the rest of the group seemed to progress a bit more quickly, thus a return trip is in order so that I can take more time to get to the "right spot" with the "right light" etc ... A decision was made to head up to the tower and skip going all around the walls of the fort, and so we went.
As with most touristy places once inside the tower base you have many options to buy things you do not need before you even get to where you are going, namely the ticketing counter to get into the lift to the top. Although I must admit, it is now fun to shop as I watch people more than the things I am supposed to consider buying. One nice feature though was that fresh local beer that was on tap at the base of the tower - yummy! Best beer in Japan by far, and someone at some point shared with me that there is a beer festival every year in Hokaiddo ... so yep, we'll be back! Once up in the tower we walked around a few times and I got a few shots; however, shooting through glass can be less than stellar and there were quite a few supports distorting the wider shots (not complaining - simply commenting). Again, after a few minutes and another group shot (we must have taken 30 group shots throughout the day) we went back down the tower and had some great curry in a restaurant near the ground level. Stone had been up the entire time it was now near 12:00. He finally passed out on Joan after having a quick snack. Everyone knew he needed some rest, so we remained seated for about 40 minutes before heading out again.
After reloading the boy and getting the pack back on, we walked back to the trolly stop and took the return route, past the spot we first got on and departed near the hill that has the gondola up to the hill top observation area. We strolled up a few blocks, then turned left (West) and you could see the hill top - I'd guess at somewhere between 1500 - 2000 feet. I though "hooray a climb" ... and I may have even said it, I was corrected in that we were taking the gondola. Wimps. The starting point was a few hundred feet up the hill so we did get to get our heart rates up a bit. Sachiko (the one who rode with us on the way to the train station) had an interesting shoe selection: wood (or cork) based clog type heals with a 2" rise. So halfway up the hill she was not too happy, laughing at herself, but not happy. I offered to put her in the back pack - and she laughed more.
We get to the gondola point and tickets were purchased and distributed we took a quick break (to breathe) and change Stone. I refilled our water bottle and bought a coffee (the yummy canned creamy stuff you find everywhere). The ride up was nice gaining perspective as we climbed - I think there was another group photo ... uggh. Have I mentioned those yet. Once on top we climbed more stairs to get to the observation deck and did my best to disappear and get some photos as the sky was very nice for shooting and the air was clear. I knew that we would have to do a group photo at some point. I did get some good images that I could stitch later into some decent pans. And yep, Tanaka came and found me for the group photo. After the group photo I again took off and started shooting more views. The air was quite clear and I could have spent hours up there watching the day do by ... Not only was there an observation deck, there was a collection of broadcasting towers, weather collecting data and a few HD camera's that were pointed at the city below. The site is also accessible by vehicle; however, the parking area was small, leading me to believe that it may be restricted (that is the road leading up). The group eventually spotted me (as if I can hide anywhere here ;) ) and we made the descent to the gondola house.
We progressed over and down the hill to a religious area, there is a Catholic Church, a Russian Orthodox Church, a Synagogue and the Shinto Temple (which we visited). I would assume that somewhere nearby there might also be a Mosque and or other religious meeting and worship places. The temple is by far the largest and stands out with is glistening roof. I asked as we approached if it was tile (ceramic) and Tanaka let me know it was actually slate, which further wowed me. That meant that they took a relatively brittle composite of rock and hand carved and finished each tile for a massive roof, wall sections and gate houses. Terribly impressive.
We entered the courtyard and everyone quickly went in as I snapped a few more photos. I got to the top of the entryway and Ricky let me know to be quite and Joan indicated that an offering (cash) was typical to enter the site, and as one might expect, take off your shoes. These were all non issues, the issue came in getting in as the only opening they had "open" was a four foot by three foot opening in one of the large sliding doors - and I knew we would not be here long, so taking the back off would not make sense. So I got as low as I could and only got somewhat hung-up in getting through - John helped by guiding the pack through. Once inside I saw that a family was finishing some sort of ceremony. Based on their dress and the offerings on the "altar" and that an elder male of the group was holding a covered urn, I figured it was a blessing on someone's passing on. Indeed, I found out later that it was an offering for a relative who has been gone for some time. I did not know if I could shoot inside and Chizuko went in search of a monk to ask ... in her search she made her way onto the area between the seating area and the area that housed the idols and statues and altars. There were a couple of signs that clearly stated in English and Japanese to not enter this area, and one of the ladies from the service (that was obviously ending) verbally called her out for being there. She then saw the sign and got a bit embarrassed - so I snapped her photo (with the sign in the background) as she told me the monks have no problem with photography. There was plenty of gold leaf on various reliefs and sculptures of various deities, outstanding woodwork (support beams etc.) and scrolls of what I assume where prayers or mantras. Quite a beautiful space. And you guessed it - after a few minutes we gathered for another photo, taken by one of the monks. The exit was not as bad as the entrance, and I managed to cleanly make it through the crawl space. Shoes back on, and we continued down the hill toward the warehouse district which is by the marina and harbor.
Ricky is an antique'r so we stopped in a couple of shops on the way to the warehouse area. That is they went into a few - after I went into the first I did not want to risk going into another. Basically the walkways were very narrow and a bump of furniture would cost me a small fortune in broken tiny breakable things. We have all heard the expression bull in a china shop - giant with baby in back pack in a china shop is about the same. Interestingly, I was told not to shoot in the shop, I did not ask why, just puzzled me.
We rested for a bit by the waterside as Chizuko and Sachiko went in search of another antique shop. There were a couple of artists on the street working and selling a few of their works. One in particular had a few caricatures and portraits done in pencil or colored pencil. I giggled at the collection, as there were mostly Japanese faces; however, mixed in were Sean (Puffy, P'diddy, whatever he calls himself now) Combs, Michael Jackson (think Thriller album MJ), some US baseball player and Pres. G.W. Bush - again, just a completely random assortment. I asked if I could take a photo - because as a whole I though it was brilliant - however, I was waved off.
It was about 4:30 and Stone had finally passed out in the back pack - so we covered him from sun exposure and he slept in the pack until he woke up at dinner when we were enjoying sushi. Really good, noteworthy sushi ... and I have now had even better unagi (eel) than the place locally - so Greg, new best Sea Bacon EVER! You also had your choice of five cuts of tuna based on fat content ... again, a really good "squishy" place.
After dinner we strolled over to the train station and on the way I was walking and talking with Sachiko - who by this point - was miserable with her feet. On the way to the station I passed a brew pub and beer garden. I told the group that I would see them in a week - I was kinda serious ... as the next day was a Jazz festival ... and did I mention that they make really good beer here - if only they would "import" it to the main island. I think she was ready to join me in the beer garden for a week.
We boarded the train and it was basically empty, so as the seats turn based on the direction of the train, Tanaka made it so that there were three sections of chairs facing each other. Basically everyone took two seats so legs could be stretched out. We all agreed it was a great day and everyone was a bit on the tired side, except of course for Stone who had now had a nap and some more food and did not quite understand why everyone was winding down. The ticket attendant came by and started talking to Stone, at first he was unimpressed and the gentleman went on his business. On a return trip by Stone looked up at him. The attendant took off his hat and played "peek a boo" with Stone. This really was not appealing and Stone pursed his lips, scrunched his face and then bellowed in an unpleasant manner. The attendant laughed and back away apologizing; which, more tickled us than making us upset of course.
As I had one beer and one serving of sake over the course of the day, I was asked very politely, if I was not going to drive. The idea that if you have had one alcoholic beverage you do not drive that day has been heavily instilled into their mindset, and all things considered, not a bad mindset to have ... I let them know Joan would be driving and this pleased them all.
It was a good day, new places, new faces, new foods and new friends. We were told that many of the people who were admiring Stone made the comment that he was to them, a living breathing porcelain doll. I am glad to say that he is far from fragile and growing daily.
If you are still reading, congratulations, you have made to the end ... for now. Cheers,
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